NuNomad

Starving for a Jet Lag Remedy

By Ricardo

Jet lag hits me harder than a jalapeño margarita. I don’t mean, simply, restless sleep for a night or two after a long (trans-Pacific) flight, but all encompassing type of jet lag: dizziness, inability to sleep more than four hours for up to six days, nausea, the acute awareness that my mind and body are not in sync—the full-on zombie enchilada. This condition is realized at least a couple of times a year—for about eight years now. So, I’m way weary of this dilemma. When I fly from Los Angeles to the far east, and especially when I travel west to east on my return trip (the mother of all hellish routes—jumping 15 time zones) I know I’ll be out of commission for at least five, maybe six, days. I simply dread it. My curiosity was, therefore, quite peaked when I read a recent on-line article (Starving yourself may fend off jet lag) announcing a Harvard University study about the relationship between one’s internal clock and how it is affected by meals. In a nutshell, it concluded that fasting during long flights may trick one’s body into lessening the impact of jet lag.

Let me state, first of all, that I am not one of those new-age, holistic, “power-cleansing” type of guys. To me fasting means missing a meal. And since the Science study stated that one should fast at least sixteen hours of the flight time from their example set forth (Tokyo to Los Angeles), I had to seriously equate—what I was sure would be a torturous ordeal—with the benefit of not having to suffer five to six days of feeling crappy afterwards. I decided, in the interest of jet lag-relief science, to be the lab rat and test out this so-called remedy.

Last week I flew from Bangkok to Los Angeles. My flight departed at 5PM. At the airport, right before the first leg of my flight (there would be a quick plane change in Taipei), I ate a big meal. This would be my last meal for 18 hours. Additionally, I followed another common remedy which is to not sleep—an option not mentioned in the study, but seem equally logical to me. “Yeah, right”, you are no doubt thinking. “No food and no sleep on a (combined) flight of 15 hours, that’s not possible.” But, I did it. No food at all, just lots of water. And after about five hours of flight, my hunger actually dissipated. It was like my brain was saying “Oh, it’s past dinner time. You must no longer be hungry.” And by the time the plane was about to land, I had also noticed that I was not nearly as tired as I should have been. I was landing in Los Angeles at 8PM and my body was feeling like a person that was (more or less) 8PM tired (granted after an exceptionally hard day) and only a couple of hours late hungry.

That first night in Los Angeles I wolfed down two plates of pasta, had half a glass of red wine and went to bed at about midnight—my normal time. The following morning I woke up at 6AM. I felt rested and not at all loopy. This, however, did not convince me that I’d dodged a bullet. My jet lag usually does not hit me until several days after the flight. But the fact that throughout that first full day back I was, for the most part, clear headed and energetic was promising. I was even able to get quite a bit of work done on the computer.

The second night’s sleep, however, was not as sound. I got in only about 5 hours—but that could have had something to do with going out to a 3rd street tequila bar with my hosts. That second day I was a little more tired than the first day—due to not getting my full eight in, not the tequila—but, still little jet lag was felt and I was still able to work several hours. That night I slept six hours and the following day (day 3), at around 6PM, I felt like taking a serious power-nap. But as I laid there on the sofa of my friend’s home, with my head begging for some nap time, my body was not concurring. I could feel how out of sync the two were. So, I sat up and forced myself to stay awake. An hour later, and after a couple of episodes of Family Guy, I was no longer sleepy. That night I slept for nearly 8 hours. And on the fifth night back, I again slept well. On day four—the day I’m usually impacted the hardest by a trans-Pacific flight—I still felt pretty good, even though I had flown eastward another two time zones that day. That night I slept nearly nine hours and that day I declared myself jet lag free.

Conclusion? The combination of fasting and not sleeping during a long flight makes a big difference. As sensitive as I am to jet lag, it was a relief this time to have gotten past it with relative ease. Yes, there was still some residual jet lag, but only about half (perhaps even less) as severe as in previous years. So, on your next long flight, starve yourself. What do you have to lose?

Re-Entering the USA. Should you be Scared?

by Ricardo

I’m about to return to the States after nearly a year nu nomading in Asia.
I bounce back to my home country for a month or two every year in the summer and it’s a nerve wracking endeavor each time. Never mind the 17 hours of flight time it takes to go from Southeast Asia (where I am now) to Los Angeles, or having to rent a car, acquire insurance and pay for gas. My greatest trepidation is clearing U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP). No, I’m not a smuggler or terrorist. I’m just another mild-mannered traveler.

What has my chonies in a twist is having just read an article in the June 2008 issue of Laptop Magazine “Digital Search and Seizure.” What this article states, supported by countless news articles, web pages and blogs on this timely subject, is that the CBP (which is part of Homeland
Security) has the right to search not only your person and luggage, but your electronic devices at will—without cause or explanation. They have the authority to copy all of your data and passwords from your mobile phone and MP3 player to notebook computer. And if they desire to, they may confiscate your devices for further inspection. Already there are many people whose notebooks have remained in custody for a year or indefinitely. Yikes!

In case you are wondering about any Fourth Amendment protection, forget it. That’s only for those who clear Customs—and even then the Patriot Act has all sorts of ways of circumventing your rights to privacy once you’re happily on your way to Iowa for a symposium on bible studies.
Until then, you’re in no-mans-land and should the border authorities feel fit to bundle you off to Guantanamo Bay while they dissect your data under the Patriot Act, there is not much you’ll be able to do about it.

Is it likely to happen? No. Only about 1% (according to an informal survey by the Association of Corporate Travel Executives) had their data copied or seized. Statistically, you’re safe.

So what is the CBP looking for? Good question. Having gone through the CBP website (www.CBP.gov) what the agents appear to be looking for are subversive documents and the usual contraband: drugs, child pornography, plants and animals. But according to other credible sources, they’re also seeking out your unlicensed media. You know, like that shared file you have of Abba’s Greatest Hits within your "My Favorite Karaoke" folder.

As stated above, I’m not a smuggler, a terrorist nor even a person of any religious affiliation. I’m like 99% of the travelers who MAY have a shared media file somewhere in my computer that may not have a purchase receipt. According to the Electronic Frontier Foundation (www.eff.org) more and more people are being singled out for prosecution for unauthorized file sharing. This could be something as benign as having a shared audio file in your iPod or an unauthorized copy of an Adobe product in your laptop.

What to do? Be aware is the first thing. Clear out anything that might be construed as subversive or even unauthorized. (I know I’m deleting this article from my computer after I post it.) Renaming files is usually a good practice. Got a file labeled “My Secret Nude Pictures of Osama Bin Laden”, you might want to change it to “My Favorite American flags.” UpgradeTravelBetter.com
has a blog on this topic which you might find helpful. Clear out the pirated stuff. Also, be sure to back up your computer and forward a copy by mail to your home address.
For more information on electronic privacy issues, check out www.EFF.org, www.ACLU.org and check out CNN’s article No Privacy for Laptops.

Meet the Nomads - Mark and Judith of Foundation Communicaid

by Ricardo
Meet Judith Madigan and Mark van Luyk, founders of Foundation Communicaid. Judith is the General Director/ Chairperson and Mark the Creative Director/ Photographer of this unconventional nonprofit organization that supports aid organizations—two nu nomads who have blended their passion for charitable endeavors with that of traipsing around the world. I caught up with them in Bangkok, and over a bottle of Italian Chianti and plates of Mexican food we talked about their way of living.

Foundation Communicaid (FCA) was formally established about a year ago to assist local community based aid organizations with their marketing and communications, by using photography, graphic design and copywriting to maximize the organizations' marketing potential. It grew after Mark and Judith, both world travelers, saw the need for such a service as they volunteered for a few aid groups during their travels. They noticed that too often organizations on the front lines of helping communities and people were unable to effectively communicate to potential supporters and donors what it was the organization was doing, how well they were doing it, and what they needed in order to keep helping people in need.

In The Netherlands Mark was an established photographer, communications and marketing professional serving as creative director for a marketing company. Judith was a licensed MSc Optometrist. Both have a great passion for charitable work. “Our intention was and still is to contribute to a better world- helping others with our skills,” said Judith. This passion, coupled with her university (masters degree) structuring skills and Mark’s creative disciplines, formed the beginning for a new vocation that would take them out of The Netherlands and on the road. It was an opportunity to do what they wanted. “While in The Netherlands,” stated Judith, “you can’t plan for a life like this. You just have to go and see what happens.”

What interested them in becoming mobile was: freedom, more opportunities, and the chance to experience diverse cultures—to see the world. Although Judith admitted to being an at-home person and found the whole mobile lifestyle idea a little frightening at first, she soon learned that it is she who makes her “home” and not the other way around. “I can adjust very easily now. And,” she added, “Mark and I finally have plenty of time for each other—which was not the case when we were living the work-a-day world back in The Netherlands.” Mark shared the sentiments of his co-worker (and personal partner) and offered an example where mobility really shined.

Up until recently the two had based themselves in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. After nearly a year in that city they felt it was simply time for a change of scenery. They were also offered other opportunities elsewhere. Being mobile allowed them to pick up their gear and mobile office equipment, get on an airplane and set up shop in Bangkok. In two more months, they’ll be in various locations within Indonesia. “Also”, Mark added, “being able to move about grants me moments of greater creativity and clarity. It is while traveling that I get these, lack of a better word ‘epiphanies’ where I get the nature of the meaning of something that I can reflect in my work.”

Both Judith and Mark are full time nomads. Though Southeast Asia is where their work is taking them these days, they are completely open to working and traveling to just about any location on earth. They have their main office in The Netherlands, so they do like visiting neighboring European countries as often as they can when they are up that way—and can afford it. Even with an ever-growing travel case of mobile equipment, they don’t find themselves anchored in any particular place yet.

These mobile professionals are, however, traveling heavier than they had anticipated at first—with Mark being burdened a bit more than his partner since he’s the photographer which requires camera equipment in addition to his notebook computer and related accessories. Mark has two cameras, both Canons. His primary one is the 1DSMarkII and he has a 10D as backup. He totes along 3 lenses (all Canons): EF 24-70mm 2.8, EF 70-200mm 2.8 IS, and EF 16-35mm 2.8, as well as a couple of remote flash units. Both prefer Macintosh computers. Their newest acquisition is a MacBook Pro 15.4” screen, 2.2GHz with Leopard OSX. The other notebook is a PowerBook G4 with a 12” screen. They chose Mac over PC because they’re partial to the graphic quality that Macs are known for, and because the operating system is not (yet) greatly vulnerable to malicious viruses. Plus they simply like the stylized design that Mac offers. (All of this stuff is packed in 2 Pelican cases, customized to fit all the stuff for FCA.) This equipment is in addition to a Wacom tablet (for graphics), Yamaha classical guitar, small iPod, and Motorola mobile phone.

When asked if there are any web-based services they rely upon to run their business, they said that here they keep it simple. Skype is their main tool for verbal communications and their on-line banking keeps their finances flowing. Other than that, they use what’s in their computers. They have little problems communicating with their clients globally or supporters back in The Netherlands.

The Netherlands is where FCA gets its financial support through donations and support grants. Their work, however, is performed overseas and changes as the opportunities and need arise. It’s a real hands-on approach. They work closely with the client at their site, but their follow-up work is done through electronic communication as “Team Worldwide” will travel from project to project as nomads. It is a vocation that has amazed and is envied by both supporters and clients, especially the latter. “Community based aid organizations are usually pretty location bound,” noted Judith. “They see our ability to up-and-go and view that as a great way of living.” Mark added that one of their clients refers to them as “The New Gypsy Organization.”

This statement brought the interview to the next logical question, regarding the pros and cons of the nu nomadic business and lifestyle. They both said that the benefits were sort of obvious: the opportunity to travel—which is in addition to what was mentioned earlier in this article about freedom and opportunities, working and meeting with various people and communities. The down side was that they sometimes felt scattered and less organized then they wished to be. They had to maintain discipline and working hours, which can be a challenge when you’re in an environment where people are often having vacation time—such as on a tropical island. Also, the time difference between Asia and The Netherlands, where they often have to do net meetings, can be difficult. When the Dutch office is open or their supporters most available, it is already late at night where the FCA team is. “But,” Judith assured “that’s not a big problem; just a little inconvenient at times.”

In closing, Mark and Judith’s advice to those people wanting to set up their own mobile business is to: “Follow your heart. Why keep yourself in this lifestyle that doesn’t make you happy? Take the step! By traveling opportunities will arise. Ultimately, the good stuff, like success and happiness, is sure to follow.”

The Work-Travel Balancing Act

by Ricardo
I was watching an episode of “Family Guy” recently, the one where baby Stewie ridicules people who strive to be seen in public (eg: Starbucks) with their notebooks open—perhaps tapping-out that promising screenplay. Though the tot doesn’t blow the heads off of the coffee-gulping remote workers (the cartoon character tends to get extreme at times), the scene does illustrate the point of remote working becoming a sort of cliché these days.

What I’ve found in the nearly seven years of nomading the world is the increased misperception of those who choose to integrate their work and home life with their lust for travel—versus those who simply like to demonstrate to others that they can finish up their projects down the street from the office (such as the ubiquitous coffee shop that supports wi-fi). And that misperception is understandable. These days, it is no longer unusual to find overseas backpackers huddled in laptop sessions at the cheap eateries or guest houses. Where they once sat around watching pirated video tapes of Bay Watch on the establishment’s television, they’re now watching pirated movies on their personal LCD screens while updating their blogs. The trading of paperback books has been replaced by the trading of DVDs, MP3 files and MySpace URLs.
Is that a bad thing? Probably not. Sad and pathetic? Hmm.

Aside from the reality that real nomads tend to do their work in more productive, if not appropriate, working environments (eg: rooms with great views), one must also find their balance. One of the harder disciplines of living this sort of work-travel life (I’m going to list two of mine now) is finding one’s center. Pardon me if I sound like Zen Master Ricardo, but if you’re traveling the world and finding yourself behind the screen (be it notebook, BlackBerry, iPod, mobile phone or other handheld device) as much or more as when you were stuck in your home country, then maybe you’re missing out on the whole nu nomad travel thing. Travel is about “getting out there,” not becoming a mobile version of the bored, introvert you were at home. At least that’s how I see it.

So what’s the advice? It’s sort of simple: set boundaries. Okay, you don’t need to be anal about it, but do try to look to the horizon for your next travel destination—as opposed to, let’s say, over the lid of your screen to the cute person at the next table. When out in public, leave the hardware in your (secured) room. If you’re in nature (hell, the town center even), pull those ear buds out buddy and listen to the sounds around you. Simply steer your life from gadget man (woman) to care-free traveler.

This brings me to the other discipline: refraining from buying too many gadgets. Not only does having redundant and superfluous equipment distract, but it weighs you down maak-maak (that’s Thai for much-much). The selection process of what you really need to be mobile, yet get your work done properly, is a judicious process. And as one of the bigger offenders of this rule, with my two laptops (one is an overblown desktop replacement and the other is an ultra-ultraportable machine for weekend excursions) I am now moving to trim down. So I ask myself: “Ricardo, do I need to have an MP3 player when I have a laptop for my music and movies? Do I need a Palm Pilot when I already have easy Internet access and a small GSM mobile phone? Do I need a travel printer when I rarely print to paper any more and when there are printing services at the cyber cafes. The truth is that I can do my work with one good machine (I’m looking into the new Lenovo ThinkPad X300.
—which is similar in design and weight to that of the MacBook Air). As for my MP3 player, my bulking Creative Zen unit is going to be replaced by an iPod Nano. And since my full-feature camera is already very compact (Canon PowerShot A710), I can concentrate on buying a new guide book (for either Laos or Hungary). And the money I’ll save from not buying all “cool tech stuff” I can spend foolishly while on my journey abroad.

So, now that mobile technology for the real road warriors is trimming down we too can take advantage of less weight and increased (physical) mobility. And if you need a little more advice on what may be necessary for your nomadic travels and not, Quit Dreaming and Go! (our handbook on how to nomad) has a comprehensive section for you to pack with.

Weekend Nomading the Mae Hong Son Loop

by Ricardo

One of the disciplines of nomading is knowing when to stay put—you know, work—and when to explore. For the past month I’ve been apartment-bound in Bangkok finalizing a couple of complicated web projects, stuff I’d rather do in my familiar environment (not the least of which is enjoy my stash of wine) than in the unknown accommodation to come. Last Thursday morning I finished up; Thursday night I was on a train to the north to begin a motorcycle journey of Thailand’s Northeast provinces known as the Mae Hong Son Loop. That and to re-visit Thailand’s second largest city, Chiang Mai, a popular tourist destination I haven’t been to since 1998.

Ten years ago, unfortunately, I found Chiang Mai not the laid-back baby brother to manic, cosmopolitan, Bangkok, but just a large city with a square of historical sites wrapped within an explosion of unimaginative tourist-oriented business such as western eateries and hotels/guest houses whose main draw was free satellite television. That impression has not changed. But at least now there’s free Wi-Fi in many of the accommodations as well as affordable serviced apartments that have amenities for the nomad (rooms with desk/table space to work from, refrigerator, hot shower and AC). Needless to say, once I saw that my email box had remained empty of “must do” messages, I bolted the hell out of Chiang Mai after only two nights stay. By early Sunday morning I was on the loop in the direction of Mae Hong Son, the picturesque town I’d longed to visit since first visiting Thailand a dozen years ago.”

Orientation: The Loop hosts three (relatively) large towns: Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son and Pai. Highway 108, taken from Chiang Mai clockwise, will get you to Mae Hong Son. The Loop continues on Highway 1095 past the popular-with-backpackers town of Pai, onto Chiang Mai. All three can easily accommodate the traveling worker for any length of time, meaning that hi-speed (100mbps ADSL) Internet is abundant, nomad-friendly accommodations plentiful, and places to go and see when not behind the computer screen are within reach. Between the three key stops, comprising the 600 kilometer loop, are unspoiled traditional towns, hill tribe communities, and several national parks—with some sort of Internet access available most of the time such as GSM via your mobile phone (in case you just have to get online). Since I was off-the-clock until Tuesday (California’s Monday morning), I knew I had several days to simply travel; so I put my laptop to bed in my backpack.

Preparation: Aside from a set of warmer clothes than I usually sport in Thailand (the North, even in mid-February, can get downright cold), the only requirements were a reliable motorcycle (125cc Honda Dream from Jaguar rentals in Chiang Mai), my Thailand guidebook (most will have a section on The Loop), protection from the sun, a liter of water, and my GSM mobile phone service which permits my mobile phone to serve as a wireless modem for my laptop. And since this article is not intended as a roadmap but as a bit of insight to The Loop, you’ll want to consult your travel guide. (Note: for those who wish to see The Loop on a more intricate level, there are a couple of good maps available in Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son bookstores. One of which is the “Map of Mae Hong Son Loop.” One other interesting resource is the Golden Triangle Rider website, although this website appears more for the “Wild Hogs” set.

The Trip: Taking The Loop clock-wise about an hour’s ride (at 60km/hr) you’ll arrive in Chom Thong. It’s a nice-enough little town hosting the impressive Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong. Aside from that, it’s just a place to take a break. It’s also the gateway to the Do Inthanon National Park (dramatic waterfalls, a concrete enclosed hot spring, and panoramic views that one can expect from a mountain top vantage point). However, since I am boycotting Thailand’s absurd Bt400 entrance fee to its key national parks (Fee’s range from Bt100-400. Thai residents pay only Bt20. This park is Bt400), I thought I’d save my $12 for something else. (Note: the current exchange rate is $1 USD to 32 Thai Baht.)

Mae Sariang is where I spent my first night. It’s a charming little town along the beautiful Yuam River. Here there are accommodations ranging from pricy boutique hotels (mostly for affluent Thais who are on holiday) to bed-only guest houses set within traditional teakwood homes. I chose the latter, the Northwest Guest House across the road from the river. The town has a couple of excellent seafood restaurants, and pleasant places along the River to have a beer with your cheap Thai or Western food. (This is the sort of laid-back environment that Pai was known for a dozen years ago.) The people of Mae Sariang are very pleasant (not in a phony way as in Chiang Mai or Pai), personable and appear to be enjoying life. One could easily stay several days here, catching a bus up highway 108 when ready to continue on. That is if they don’t have their own wheels.

Mae La Noi is only 30km away from Mae Sariang, but after stopping for an iced coffee (“café yen”) at the stand next to the big Silver Sala (a sort of wall-less pavilion) and being overwhelmed by the magnificent view of the rice fields below and traditional hill town in the backdrop, I decided to drive down into the valley (known as Ma Yuam Fam Kwaa) and cruise the town’s picturesque streets that lead into hill tribe communities and vast farmlands. I found the location so enchanting that I stayed the night in the area’s only “home stay” which was a new teakwood mansion at the entry point of Ma Yum. The sign in front of the compound is in Thai, but it’s obvious that it’s a place to stay for the night. (For Bt500, I had one of the nicest rooms ever. Amazing views, very comfortable sleep. There are two nice bungalows for Bt300.)

Khun Yuam, an hour’s ride from Mae La Noi, is a popular resting spot for Loopers. Though the town is pretty and hosts a museum on WWII history, there are few attractions other than nature walks. There you’ll find the Baan Farang Guest House. It’s very clean and comfortable as well as a great place to eat. (Rarely do roadside backpacker places do justice to Thai food.) And the operator, Ms. Macci, is an interesting young woman, with much history of the region to share with you.

Traditional villages continue to dot much of highway 108 and you’ll find yourself wanting to stop and take a peek inside some of them. Do that. It will be well worth your time. (Of course, try to be inconspicuous and avoid clicking pictures of locals as if they are statues and not people.) The National Parks also become more abundant as you climb higher north. Mae Surin has one of Thailand’s most spectacular waterfalls, and offers up spectacular views. One can go up to Mae Ko Vafe without the need for the expensive park fee, up to “microwave top”, passing a Hmong village, where there’s a nice viewing area.

Mae Hong Son, Thailand’s northwestern capital and province, is actually a small town. It’s not only a very lovely place to chill out (BTW, in the winter the temperatures can get to freezing) but a location to make as your base for trekking and area visits. It’s also a fine place to stay put and work for a week or two. The food up here may not win awards (though one must try Pra Cra Ho seafood restaurant at the town’s gateway), but the people are interesting, bright, and love to chat. With all of the coffee houses, book readers, mountain bikes and joggers, you’ll think you’re in an Oregon (USA) college town. Jong Kham Lake is the counterpoint of the town and where many of the budget guest houses nudge up to. Most of the cheaper places charge about Bt300 per night (bed only, but great views of the lake), but there are places set back aside and behind Wat Chong Kham that are of great value. Romtai House has teak bungalows around a lovely lotus pond for Bt300-500 per night. Though no Wi-Fi yet, the rooms are big, have furniture, refrigerator, hot shower, AC, and Satellite TV. And just a short walk away, on the lake’s southwest corner, is Baan Tue Lek coffee house. Miss Pook provides free Wi-Fi—as well as great information on what to enjoy within her town. Great location.

Mae Hong Son is not, however, a party scene. The few bars in town are more quaint then “happening”. (You’ll want to continue on to Pai for that.) There are, however, interesting morning and nights markets here, loads of coffee houses to read a book in, National Parks and nearby traditional villages and hill tribes to explore. Mae Hong Son is slow—but in a good way.

If you leave Mae Hong Son early and travel highway 1095 you can arrive in Pai in time for lunch. You’ll first pass the town of Soppong (known for its cave tours), which is where you’ll begin your decent southward. But do take your time on these hairpin-turn roads, and savor the drive. Along the way you’ll be treated to some of Thailand’s finest nature and views of hill tribe villages. (Because once you’re in Pai, the delicate natural order of the northwest takes a dive.)

In the past decade, Pai has become the darling for backpackers (most of whom only travel with the Southeast Asia on a Shoestring—known as the guide book for the herd). What was once a sleepy little town along the Pai River has become a tourist haunt for the young who are seeking traveler companionships, cheap ganga and convenience over authenticity and inspiration. Having once enjoyed Pai as a place with a soul, it now only breaks my heart. It isn’t Khao San Road yet, but give it another few years.

Once you leave Pai (or pass by it) you’ll see more of the familiar scenery you’d seen while arching over the northern tip: traditional villages, terraced fields, magnificent landscapes. This will continue for about 90 minutes before entering the greater Chiang Mai region.

Trains to and from Chiang Mai to Bangkok are scheduled throughout the day. Get a second class sleeper berth and pass the night away in slumber. Flights are also available all day, with frequent promotional prices.
To see images of the Mae Hong Son Loop, visit the Laptophobo Photo Album.

Nomading in America?

By: Ricardo

I remember struggling in my college macro-economics class some years ago over the relationship between the strength of the US Dollar, the consumer price index, interest rates and all that stuff. It was the sort of mind-numbing equation that only made me want to pack my backpack even faster for the nomadic journey I was strategically planning instead of doing my homework. But this year I finally got what my professor was trying to explain to me.

Since January 2007 the US Dollar has fallen in strength 12 percent against its biggest rival, the Euro . Therefore my money-belt and US bank accounts that store my greenbacks, which fund my nu nomadic lifestyle, are becoming dangerously anemic. (I'm at risk of sharing the same economic position to those of working expats. Nooo!) For example, when I arrived in Thailand six years ago to begin my work-travel journey, the Thai Baht was 42 to one USD. Not a shabby exchange rate at all. Then, slowly, that rate began to ebb. Now the Baht is only 33 to the Dollar. This means that within six years everything cost 28 percent more-and this is not factoring in local inflation. And Thailand is not the only country that is affected. Nearly all are.

Yup, the ability to take advantage of the higher paying "western" economies while spending it in the lower priced "eastern" economies is now leveling off. China, India, Thailand are but a few examples of what were once "great values " for those with Dollars. But with Asia's emerging economies and America's slide toward recession, I may soon find myself making a circle back to America soon. Yes, America!

The up-side to America's week dollar is that America's (that is, USA, as opposed to North and South America) goods and services are now competitive again! Who would have thought? Now on the world market (which we nomads have to survive in) foreign companies want American airplanes, American computer chips, American stuff. Why? Because the Dollar is now down some 40 percent against the Euro (within the past seven years) and those with Euros, British Pounds or whatever are now taking advantage of the weaker American economy. And now traveling in America can only be cheaper than it has been in decades-especially if your income is in Euros or Pounds.

All over the USA there are small, inexpensive, towns to visit and nomad in. Forget expensive New York and Los Angeles. Think Route 66 haunts and national parks. I mean, really, how much could a one room apartment in say, Winslow Arizona, cost?

I would be very curious to hear from other nu nomads who are currently in the States what prices they're paying for such things as accommodations, food, transpiration and Internet access.

Nu Nomad Founders Meet Face to Face for the First Time

By Carmen Bolanos
July 8 2007

After more than year of hard work on NuNomad, LaptopHobo, and the book, Quit Dreaming and Go!. Ricardo and I finally found ourselves on the same side of the planet at the same time! Believe it or not, the two of us met over the internet through our mutual interest in creating a resource for the working-traveler. And before we knew it, we found ourselves plunging into doing business together before we ever met in person.

A lot of people find this pairing pretty unbelievable. How do you dare get into business with someone whom you've never met? The simple answer is that if you plan to do business remotely, you will have to learn how to make bonds with others without being in the same room, or even the same continent. This is the real key to freeing yourself up geographically. So, how do you do it? Here are some ideas that work:

* Start slowly and casually - if you are meeting someone virtually for the first time with whom you think you'd like to do business, move slowly. Introduce yourself and express a casual but sincere interest. Don't ask for anything or offer anything in the beginning. Merely make contact and see if you can get the other party to return interest with some introduction of their own.

* Engage in conversation over time - let the other party know the nature of your interest and engage in some conversation via email or Skype to toss ideas around if they have interest in your proposal. Again, do not commit to anything or expect commitment in the beginning. Use this "courtship" to notice their habits. Do they return emails in a timely manner? What is the tone of their communication? Do you get the sense they are flexible, reasonable, or temperamental? Do you have the sense this is a trustworthy person? This is a good time to ask about history. Do they have any work on the web you can look at? Do they have references? Are they willing to share their work history with you? In other words, this is all about building trust based on facts that can be verified.

* If you feel uneasy, be up front. Your intuition may tell you to disengage at this point. Gut feelings are important. Better to disengage before any commitment has been made.

* If your intuition is giving you positive vibes, try something small together. Ideally, you might create something that requires no financial burden for either party (e.g.,., write a chapter of a book together, create a sample web page, do some informational interviews in your area of interest and share information with each other). You may begin a working relationship simply by forming a mutually beneficial alliance for your respective businesses.

*As your working relationship grows, be sure to take notes of conversations and share them with each other to ensure you have both understood the results of your meetings. Keep a written record of your email/Skype/IM interactions. It's important to be able to refer back to written interaction in case of a misunderstanding down the road.

*Ensure that your relationship is beneficial to both parties. If it is not, resentment will build and you will lose in the long run. Address this issue periodically to ensure that all parties are content.

*Above all else, be honest and direct with yourself and your partner and expect the same in return.
Getting into business with someone else can be a stressful experience. However, a good partner is indispensable. Ideally, you will find that your talents are a good balance for each other and that the two of you inspire each other forward.

I have to say, I was very nervous just before meeting Ricardo at the airport. The great news is - that after a couple of days together I realized all our communications across the globe had paid off and he really was the trustworthy partner I had imagined. To top it off - he makes a mean pasta dinner!

MojoPac: A Laptop Hobo’s Best Traveling Companion

How many times have you wished that your computer was with you while out-and-about? You know, like when you’re checking emails at an Internet Café in some end-of-earth location and one of your customers has just emailed you an urgent request—a situation that requires you to use all the tools within your home computer. But, unfortunately, you’re nowhere near home. Now imagine that you have your entire home computer environment within your pocket hard drive, MP3 player or even flash stick.

I’ve been waiting for such a travel tool for quite some time now. A program which converts any PC operating on XP or Vista into a fully-functioning, near-mirror image, version of the password-protected computer I work on everyday—complete with programs, settings and document files. Thankfully I’ve found such a tool, Mojopac , and the test results are impressive.

How it Works:

Simply plug in your USB device (in which you’ve pre-loaded MojoPac, along with all the stuff you’d load onto your home computer—save for the actual operating system) into the host computer and their screen becomes your familiar desktop. Toggle back and forth between the host environment and your MojoPac view. Their Internet connection is yours, and there’s no need to add anything to the host computer.

After spending a week testing MojoPac out in various working situations: multi-tasking between half a dozen programs (Macromedia Studio, MS Office, and far lesser known applications), and going from one computer to another, I can say that the MojoPac can serve as your primary working environment, where you treat PCs as simple (to quote the makers) “dumb terminals”.

Road Tested:

I was on day 5 yesterday of testing my MojoPac when I realized that I had to renew my tourist visa (make a visa run), requiring me to drop everything to take a mini-bus to the Malaysian boarder. (I’m currently based in Southern Thailand.) That morning I check my email box and got a request by one of my customers to update several of their web pages. My primary computer, however, is an HP Pavilion zx5000—a heavy, oversize, desktop replacement machine. I wasn’t about to lug that beast along for the ride. However, I also have a Fujitsu p7120 ultra-portable notebook (for when I’m traveling light). Luckily (since there was no time to transfer files from one PC to another) all of my working files and programs were now on my MojoPac, and all I had to do to keep working (for the duration of that hellish 10 hour journey) was to grab my little p120 notebook, my mobile phone (with Bluetooth), and my MojoPac. (Yes, my passport too. Sheesh.) And by the time the mini-bus reached the first ferry off the island from where I’m based, I had already made the Web file change with Dreamweaver, created a new jpeg image (with Fireworks), uploaded the revisions to my customer’s web server, and logged the working time in Excel. Afterwards, I downloaded new emails and replied to them (via Outlook), and then read BBCNews.com and NYTimes.com before calling that spur-of-the-moment workday complete.

A few matters of concern:

I loaded the trial version (free for 30 days) MojoPac onto a 60GB, USB 2.0, external hard drive. Although I found little resistance in applying programs to it (involving the same procedures as loading applications to any PC), I noticed a couple of minor issues. One was “power twitches”. This blinking on and off of the MojoPac working environment was due to the fact that USB offers far less power than when working directly from a host PC. Secondly, I found that MojoPac would not allow me to load my Norton Anti-Virus. RingCube’s (the makers of MojoPac) tech people recommended that one uses a “USB power cable” or a “dual-headed” cable that attaches to 2 USB ports—one for data, the other for power. I experienced a little less twitching when experimenting with the later option. My external HDD does not provide for a power cable. The twitching, however, was simply a minor annoyance than anything else. As for protecting your MojoPac against viruses, MojoPac offers a list of other security product options that work (including TrendMicro) and have assured me that their next version of MojoPac (due out soon) will allow for Norton Anti-Virus. I did, however, notice (between toggling back and forth between the host and MojoPac view) that the Norton Anti-Virus on my host was already filtering out my emails for me on the MojoPac. And though this makes me question whether there is any sharing of programs or files going on between the host PC and MojoPac, the people at RingCube state that “no, nothing” is shared between host and MojoPac.

As for technical support,

Posted at 03:00 PM in Products for the Nomad, Ricardo, Stuff You Need, Tech Stuff | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Our latest review of laptops reveals that manufacturers are more than a little schizophrenic—but in a good way. They now offer lighter machines that offer either a larger screen size (up to 19”!) or, 9” screens. Both trends will appeal to (if not actually benefit) the nomadic worker.

Interestingly, our recent Laptop Review (comprised of top reviews by PC World and Laptop magazines, and frequent visits to Bangkok’s famed Pantip Plaza) of the top rated power (“desktop replacement”) machines nearly all have a screen size of 17”. One prime example is HP Pavilion’s dv9000t: powerful, lighter then ever (8 lbs, down 1.5 pounds from its predecessor the zd7000), with better visuals and sound.

However, historically, even the 15” machines were considered too over-sized for the average nomadic worker/traveler—mostly due to the weight involved in producing such a beast. But with the introduction of Dual-Core technology, having a full-on display (even if it’s only to watch DVD movies, or for gaming while on the road) has made this luxury more tempting. I mean, let’s face it. After you’ve done your morning’s work, visited a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the afternoon, and have finished up the last chapter of that great book a week ago, being able to enjoy a DVD movie on a proper size display is a reasonable desire—is it not! Therefore, a fresh look at over-sized notebooks needs to occur—even though many of us wanderlusters have chosen to take our lives on the road to get away from all that excess. But, this reviewer regresses. Anyway…

Lugging around a 17” (or even Alienware’s Area-51m 5750 machine with a mega screen size of 19”) machine around—this laptop hobo believes—is sort of like bringing your snake-skin cowboy boots with you to the tropics. They may look and feel good to you at home but you’ll soon realize they’re a pain to carry and the extravagance of it a bit over-the-top. Yet, this is not to say that large displays don’t serve an important niche community. They do. Specifically, multimedia and graphic designers who struggle enough outside of their full-on studio will most likely be the ones willing to shoulder the burden of these mega desktop replacements. And if one plans to base themselves in a single location, as oppose to backpacking through Europe or Asia (and changing locations frequently) then the larger machines are but another factor of your oversized luggage.

Leaping into the other direction is the Ultra-portable choice. Not only are they more powerful, but they are shrinking. In fact, some may actually be too small. Where this reviewer continues to tout the extreme mobility of Fujitsu’s Lifebook P7120 (and uses it when away from his base location), the new Lifebook P1610 may not be practical for long term use—even though it weighs only 2.2 lbs and displays a screen size of only 9.1 inches. However, if you don’t have to work with a lot of graphics, and full work days are a rarity, then the new P1610 just might be your baby.

Something more in the middle perhaps?

Although this reviewer is a very big fan of HP’s Pavilion line, specifically the award-amassing dv6000t (15.4”, 6.1 lbs, very powerful and unsurpassed multimedia) and the dv2000t (14.1”, 5.3 lbs, with great graphics and sound), the great middle contender just may be Lenovo’s (remember IBM?) ThinkPad x60s Notebook. Hailed by several leading tech magazines (PC World and Laptop Magazines, to name just two), this power-puppy comes in at 3.5 lbs, with a nomad-friendly 12.1” display. It has a battery life of more than 8 hours and its Intel 1.66-MHz Core Duo L2400 processor makes it one of the fastest ultraportable machines ever.

Best bets.

If you need a very powerful machine, one with a full-size screen, then the best bet in the power/desktop-replacement category may be HP Pavilion’s dv6000t. For extreme portability (that won’t make you go completely blind squinting over the screen size), then the nod is on Fujitsu’s Lifebook p7120. But should you desire a very nice balance between the two, then Lenovo’s ThinkPad x60s is a very safe bet.

Please visit our Laptop Review Page .

Finding India too chaotic or Nepal a bit rural as a working-traveler destination? Perhaps you’ll appreciate the middle-ground of Sri Lanka.

The Internet is no longer an esoteric technology on this island nation of nearly twenty million (though broadband is still limited to only the largest of cities such as Kandy, Negombo and in and around the capitol of Colombo), thus affording working nomads to spend mornings and afternoons traipsing through former Ceylon’s numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites and amazing national parks, while leaving the island’s quiet evenings for a bit of bill-paying work.

The Basics:

Internet access, though patchy and limited mostly to dial-up service, is now a part of Sri Lankan life and available in virtually all of the traveler destinations. Cyber “cafes” (don’t expect there to be any actual food here) are quickly replacing the familiar telephone rooms (communications bureaus) with options of net-to-phone (though not reliable without broadband service), regular land-line phone service, and sales of pre-paid mobile phone “scratcher” access cards. SLTNet (www.sltnet.lk) is the primary Internet service provider for the island. Purchase a 200RS/$2USD (simply convert rupees to cents) pre-paid access card and that should cover your needs (10 hours). You will, however, need to spend a few minutes registering on-line via their limited access sign-up portal (which is accessed through your laptop and the pre-paid card). Once inside SLTNet’s easy-to-understand interface, you’ll create your own login name and password—which you’ll use from that moment on. Most guest houses/hotels will not object to your using their land-line for dial-up, though they may ask for about 2RS/minute as a service charge. SLTNet provides a national (apparently, toll free) access number. Some guest houses/hotels (“tourist rest houses”) provide Internet service via their, generally, antiquated machines. Some of the larger, 4-5 star, hotels have Wi-Fi and provide it to their guests free of charge (though if you’re a true Laptop Hobo, you probably won’t be finding yourself in too many of these posh establishments).

Wireless interface via Bluetooth is not yet available for the tourists. This seems to be an issue more with the mobile phone service providers (Dialog) than with the lack of any Bluetooth signal. (I was told by Dialog that pre-paid accounts do not enjoy this access bud hinted that monthly accounts do.) However, not being able to connect your mobile phone to the ISP is no reason to not obtain a country-wide SIM card. You’ll find having your own phone very handy throughout your travels. In Colombo, where you’ll arrive and leave from, purchase a SIM card and pre-paid “reload” card at any of the numerous mobile phone shops and “communications bureaus”. But if you don’t get connected in the capitol, don’t worry. Any big town will have what you need. (I purchased my SIM card and reload card in a shopping complex directly across from historic Galle Fort. 700RS for the SIM along with 1000RS worth of telephone time—which was more than enough for my 3 week trip.) Oh, I gave the tuk-tuk driver a 50RS tip for pointing me to the right location. (It seems that all tuk tuk drivers have mobile phones.)

As for the working area/environment, I found that most of the older tourist rest houses had a table, writing desk or vanity within the rooms for guests to use. In the newer and/or extreme budget lodgings you may have to make due with working off any of the numerous dining tables or from your lap. In-room electrical connections were usually limited to two: one in the sleeping area and one in the adjoining washroom. The power, as with virtually all of Asia, is 220 volts and can be connect with your international adapter. (Note that there is a rather awkward safety device that requires your pushing aside a recessed pin cover. Ask your hotel manager for help if you are unable to figure it out.) And as mentioned previously, several of the tourist rest houses offer their own Internet access service which includes the usual computer work station.

Security:

The operators of all of the establishments I stayed in were as helpful as they were watchful—plenty. Additionally, each room had adequate door and window locks—many windows had bars. (This ominous precaution was as much for the numerous naughty monkeys as for the thieves.) Half of the rooms I stayed in provided some sort of locked reciprocal, be it a fortified night stand, an antique wardrobe or desk drawer. In the larger hotels, where the proprietors had too big of an area to keep an eye on, I often left my laptop with the manager while I visited the ancient remains of Kandy, Galle, Sigirya, Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, or walked the white sandy beaches.

Personal safety was not an issue for me. Sri Lankans, unlike what I’ve encountered in India, tended to respect your personal space. No doubt there were plenty of petty thieves around, but belligerence was not encountered. And, yes, there is a civil war going on, but that has been limited primarily to the island’s north and north-east. Additionally, terrorist attacks have not (to date) been targeted toward foreign visitors. The military presence can be a little disconcerting, but I found that their inspection of virtually every bus I traveled on was more appreciated than frowned upon. Yet the war and the possibility of being a victim of it (though remote) is a travel factor you need to consider. Since the media has well publicized Sri Lanka’s recent terrorist flare-ups—thus putting off many visitors to the island—I was able to visit some of the world’s most amazing sites with virtually no tourist obstructions. I often had entire sites all to myself—a great way to see a historic area, if not a bit lonely. You would be well advised, however, to get up-to-date information on Sri Lanka’s current level of hostilities by talking to those who have just left the country. Also, Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum is always a great source for this sort of stuff, or place your questions/comments in www.NuNomad.com/forum.

Costs:

Finally, the cost of doing business/traveling in Sri Lanka: The exchange rate was $1USD to 107RS. You can simply convert rupees into US cents for an easily calculable formula. There is a two-tier pricing scheme for visiting any of the national sites and parks. The popular World Heritage sites usually cost $20 each to visit. International student card holders pay half the price. (The locals pay nearly nothing.) Lodging and meals were often of great value. Clean, lovely little budget guest houses/hotels ranged between $6-12 per night. There were cheaper accommodations available, but the around $10 places were always the best value for the money. Beer and spirits were about average cost, and I was able to well afford imported wines when purchased at the “Food Mart” grocery stores. The cost of transportation, due to the age of the trains and buses, was negligible—if not a bit exhausting. All-in-all, costs were similar to that of Thailand or Egypt.

In a Nut Shell:

Sri Lanka is an intriguing, comfortable (save for transport) place to visit. It’s no wonder that Marco Polo described it as the finest island in the world. It is a destination that one could hardly fully visit in a single visit, but can see most of the key sites in less than a month. The country has gorgeous beaches, delicious food, resilient and, generally, helpful people—but it is a country in perpetual struggle.

The former Ceylon's diverse communities (Buddhist, Hindi, Christians and Muslims) are at the heart of this island's decades-old civil war. Though most are able to live well with each other as neighbors, it is only the political community which is in turmoil. Perhaps this will be resolved before too long. But for now those who brave a visit to this country will at least have the benefit of seeing Sri Lanka without the crush of tourists, and those whom you’ll meet will, no doubt, be happy that you made the journey.

Laptop Review - Size Matters

Our latest review of laptops reveals that manufacturers are more than a little schizophrenic—but in a good way. They now offer lighter machines that offer either a larger screen size (up to 19”!) or, 9” screens. Both trends will appeal to (if not actually benefit) the nomadic worker.

Interestingly, our recent Laptop Review (comprised of top reviews by PC World and Laptop magazines, and frequent visits to Bangkok’s famed Pantip Plaza) of the top rated power (“desktop replacement”) machines nearly all have a screen size of 17”. One prime example is HP Pavilion’s dv9000t: powerful, lighter then ever (8 lbs, down 1.5 pounds from its predecessor the zd7000), with better visuals and sound.

However, historically, even the 15” machines were considered too over-sized for the average nomadic worker/traveler—mostly due to the weight involved in producing such a beast. But with the introduction of Dual-Core technology, having a full-on display (even if it’s only to watch DVD movies, or for gaming while on the road) has made this luxury more tempting. I mean, let’s face it. After you’ve done your morning’s work, visited a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the afternoon, and have finished up the last chapter of that great book a week ago, being able to enjoy a DVD movie on a proper size display is a reasonable desire—is it not! Therefore, a fresh look at over-sized notebooks needs to occur—even though many of us wanderlusters have chosen to take our lives on the road to get away from all that excess. But, this reviewer regresses. Anyway…

Lugging around a 17” (or even Alienware’s Area-51m 5750 machine with a mega screen size of 19”) machine around—this laptop hobo believes—is sort of like bringing your snake-skin cowboy boots with you to the tropics. They may look and feel good to you at home but you’ll soon realize they’re a pain to carry and the extravagance of it a bit over-the-top. Yet, this is not to say that large displays don’t serve an important niche community. They do. Specifically, multimedia and graphic designers who struggle enough outside of their full-on studio will most likely be the ones willing to shoulder the burden of these mega desktop replacements. And if one plans to base themselves in a single location, as oppose to backpacking through Europe or Asia (and changing locations frequently) then the larger machines are but another factor of your oversized luggage.

Leaping into the other direction is the Ultra-portable choice. Not only are they more powerful, but they are shrinking. In fact, some may actually be too small. Where this reviewer continues to tout the extreme mobility of Fujitsu’s Lifebook P7120 (and uses it when away from his base location), the new Lifebook P1610 may not be practical for long term use—even though it weighs only 2.2 lbs and displays a screen size of only 9.1 inches. However, if you don’t have to work with a lot of graphics, and full work days are a rarity, then the new P1610 just might be your baby.

Something more in the middle perhaps?

Although this reviewer is a very big fan of HP’s Pavilion line, specifically the award-amassing dv6000t (15.4”, 6.1 lbs, very powerful and unsurpassed multimedia) and the dv2000t (14.1”, 5.3 lbs, with great graphics and sound), the great middle contender just may be Lenovo’s (remember IBM?) ThinkPad x60s Notebook. Hailed by several leading tech magazines (PC World and Laptop Magazines, to name just two), this power-puppy comes in at 3.5 lbs, with a nomad-friendly 12.1” display. It has a battery life of more than 8 hours and its Intel 1.66-MHz Core Duo L2400 processor makes it one of the fastest ultraportable machines ever.

Best bets.

If you need a very powerful machine, one with a full-size screen, then the best bet in the power/desktop-replacement category may be HP Pavilion’s dv6000t. For extreme portability (that won’t make you go completely blind squinting over the screen size), then the nod is on Fujitsu’s Lifebook p7120. But should you desire a very nice balance between the two, then Lenovo’s ThinkPad x60s is a very safe bet.

Please visit our Laptop Review Page .

Laptopping through Sri Lanka

Finding India too chaotic or Nepal a bit rural as a working-traveler destination? Perhaps you’ll appreciate the middle-ground of Sri Lanka.

The Internet is no longer an esoteric technology on this island nation of nearly twenty million (though broadband is still limited to only the largest of cities such as Kandy, Negombo and in and around the capitol of Colombo), thus affording working nomads to spend mornings and afternoons traipsing through former Ceylon’s numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites and amazing national parks, while leaving the island’s quiet evenings for a bit of bill-paying work.

The Basics:

Internet access, though patchy and limited mostly to dial-up service, is now a part of Sri Lankan life and available in virtually all of the traveler destinations. Cyber “cafes” (don’t expect there to be any actual food here) are quickly replacing the familiar telephone rooms (communications bureaus) with options of net-to-phone (though not reliable without broadband service), regular land-line phone service, and sales of pre-paid mobile phone “scratcher” access cards. SLTNet (www.sltnet.lk) is the primary Internet service provider for the island. Purchase a 200RS/$2USD (simply convert rupees to cents) pre-paid access card and that should cover your needs (10 hours). You will, however, need to spend a few minutes registering on-line via their limited access sign-up portal (which is accessed through your laptop and the pre-paid card). Once inside SLTNet’s easy-to-understand interface, you’ll create your own login name and password—which you’ll use from that moment on. Most guest houses/hotels will not object to your using their land-line for dial-up, though they may ask for about 2RS/minute as a service charge. SLTNet provides a national (apparently, toll free) access number. Some guest houses/hotels (“tourist rest houses”) provide Internet service via their, generally, antiquated machines. Some of the larger, 4-5 star, hotels have Wi-Fi and provide it to their guests free of charge (though if you’re a true Laptop Hobo, you probably won’t be finding yourself in too many of these posh establishments).

Wireless interface via Bluetooth is not yet available for the tourists. This seems to be an issue more with the mobile phone service providers (Dialog) than with the lack of any Bluetooth signal. (I was told by Dialog that pre-paid accounts do not enjoy this access bud hinted that monthly accounts do.) However, not being able to connect your mobile phone to the ISP is no reason to not obtain a country-wide SIM card. You’ll find having your own phone very handy throughout your travels. In Colombo, where you’ll arrive and leave from, purchase a SIM card and pre-paid “reload” card at any of the numerous mobile phone shops and “communications bureaus”. But if you don’t get connected in the capitol, don’t worry. Any big town will have what you need. (I purchased my SIM card and reload card in a shopping complex directly across from historic Galle Fort. 700RS for the SIM along with 1000RS worth of telephone time—which was more than enough for my 3 week trip.) Oh, I gave the tuk-tuk driver a 50RS tip for pointing me to the right location. (It seems that all tuk tuk drivers have mobile phones.)

As for the working area/environment, I found that most of the older tourist rest houses had a table, writing desk or vanity within the rooms for guests to use. In the newer and/or extreme budget lodgings you may have to make due with working off any of the numerous dining tables or from your lap. In-room electrical connections were usually limited to two: one in the sleeping area and one in the adjoining washroom. The power, as with virtually all of Asia, is 220 volts and can be connect with your international adapter. (Note that there is a rather awkward safety device that requires your pushing aside a recessed pin cover. Ask your hotel manager for help if you are unable to figure it out.) And as mentioned previously, several of the tourist rest houses offer their own Internet access service which includes the usual computer work station.

Security:

The operators of all of the establishments I stayed in were as helpful as they were watchful—plenty. Additionally, each room had adequate door and window locks—many windows had bars. (This ominous precaution was as much for the numerous naughty monkeys as for the thieves.) Half of the rooms I stayed in provided some sort of locked reciprocal, be it a fortified night stand, an antique wardrobe or desk drawer. In the larger hotels, where the proprietors had too big of an area to keep an eye on, I often left my laptop with the manager while I visited the ancient remains of Kandy, Galle, Sigirya, Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, or walked the white sandy beaches.

Personal safety was not an issue for me. Sri Lankans, unlike what I’ve encountered in India, tended to respect your personal space. No doubt there were plenty of petty thieves around, but belligerence was not encountered. And, yes, there is a civil war going on, but that has been limited primarily to the island’s north and north-east. Additionally, terrorist attacks have not (to date) been targeted toward foreign visitors. The military presence can be a little disconcerting, but I found that their inspection of virtually every bus I traveled on was more appreciated than frowned upon. Yet the war and the possibility of being a victim of it (though remote) is a travel factor you need to consider. Since the media has well publicized Sri Lanka’s recent terrorist flare-ups—thus putting off many visitors to the island—I was able to visit some of the world’s most amazing sites with virtually no tourist obstructions. I often had entire sites all to myself—a great way to see a historic area, if not a bit lonely. You would be well advised, however, to get up-to-date information on Sri Lanka’s current level of hostilities by talking to those who have just left the country. Also, Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum is always a great source for this sort of stuff, or place your questions/comments in www.NuNomad.com/forum.

Costs:

Finally, the cost of doing business/traveling in Sri Lanka: The exchange rate was $1USD to 107RS. You can simply convert rupees into US cents for an easily calculable formula. There is a two-tier pricing scheme for visiting any of the national sites and parks. The popular World Heritage sites usually cost $20 each to visit. International student card holders pay half the price. (The locals pay nearly nothing.) Lodging and meals were often of great value. Clean, lovely little budget guest houses/hotels ranged between $6-12 per night. There were cheaper accommodations available, but the around $10 places were always the best value for the money. Beer and spirits were about average cost, and I was able to well afford imported wines when purchased at the “Food Mart” grocery stores. The cost of transportation, due to the age of the trains and buses, was negligible—if not a bit exhausting. All-in-all, costs were similar to that of Thailand or Egypt.

In a Nut Shell:

Sri Lanka is an intriguing, comfortable (save for transport) place to visit. It’s no wonder that Marco Polo described it as the finest island in the world. It is a destination that one could hardly fully visit in a single visit, but can see most of the key sites in less than a month. The country has gorgeous beaches, delicious food, resilient and, generally, helpful people—but it is a country in perpetual struggle.

The former Ceylon's diverse communities (Buddhist, Hindi, Christians and Muslims) are at the heart of this island's decades-old civil war. Though most are able to live well with each other as neighbors, it is only the political community which is in turmoil. Perhaps this will be resolved before too long. But for now those who brave a visit to this country will at least have the benefit of seeing Sri Lanka without the crush of tourists, and those whom you’ll meet will, no doubt, be happy that you made the journey.