Weekend Nomading the Mae Hong Son Loop

by Ricardo

One of the disciplines of nomading is knowing when to stay put—you know, work—and when to explore. For the past month I’ve been apartment-bound in Bangkok finalizing a couple of complicated web projects, stuff I’d rather do in my familiar environment (not the least of which is enjoy my stash of wine) than in the unknown accommodation to come. Last Thursday morning I finished up; Thursday night I was on a train to the north to begin a motorcycle journey of Thailand’s Northeast provinces known as the Mae Hong Son Loop. That and to re-visit Thailand’s second largest city, Chiang Mai, a popular tourist destination I haven’t been to since 1998.

Ten years ago, unfortunately, I found Chiang Mai not the laid-back baby brother to manic, cosmopolitan, Bangkok, but just a large city with a square of historical sites wrapped within an explosion of unimaginative tourist-oriented business such as western eateries and hotels/guest houses whose main draw was free satellite television. That impression has not changed. But at least now there’s free Wi-Fi in many of the accommodations as well as affordable serviced apartments that have amenities for the nomad (rooms with desk/table space to work from, refrigerator, hot shower and AC). Needless to say, once I saw that my email box had remained empty of “must do” messages, I bolted the hell out of Chiang Mai after only two nights stay. By early Sunday morning I was on the loop in the direction of Mae Hong Son, the picturesque town I’d longed to visit since first visiting Thailand a dozen years ago.”

Orientation: The Loop hosts three (relatively) large towns: Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son and Pai. Highway 108, taken from Chiang Mai clockwise, will get you to Mae Hong Son. The Loop continues on Highway 1095 past the popular-with-backpackers town of Pai, onto Chiang Mai. All three can easily accommodate the traveling worker for any length of time, meaning that hi-speed (100mbps ADSL) Internet is abundant, nomad-friendly accommodations plentiful, and places to go and see when not behind the computer screen are within reach. Between the three key stops, comprising the 600 kilometer loop, are unspoiled traditional towns, hill tribe communities, and several national parks—with some sort of Internet access available most of the time such as GSM via your mobile phone (in case you just have to get online). Since I was off-the-clock until Tuesday (California’s Monday morning), I knew I had several days to simply travel; so I put my laptop to bed in my backpack.

Preparation: Aside from a set of warmer clothes than I usually sport in Thailand (the North, even in mid-February, can get downright cold), the only requirements were a reliable motorcycle (125cc Honda Dream from Jaguar rentals in Chiang Mai), my Thailand guidebook (most will have a section on The Loop), protection from the sun, a liter of water, and my GSM mobile phone service which permits my mobile phone to serve as a wireless modem for my laptop. And since this article is not intended as a roadmap but as a bit of insight to The Loop, you’ll want to consult your travel guide. (Note: for those who wish to see The Loop on a more intricate level, there are a couple of good maps available in Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son bookstores. One of which is the “Map of Mae Hong Son Loop.” One other interesting resource is the Golden Triangle Rider website, although this website appears more for the “Wild Hogs” set.

The Trip: Taking The Loop clock-wise about an hour’s ride (at 60km/hr) you’ll arrive in Chom Thong. It’s a nice-enough little town hosting the impressive Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong. Aside from that, it’s just a place to take a break. It’s also the gateway to the Do Inthanon National Park (dramatic waterfalls, a concrete enclosed hot spring, and panoramic views that one can expect from a mountain top vantage point). However, since I am boycotting Thailand’s absurd Bt400 entrance fee to its key national parks (Fee’s range from Bt100-400. Thai residents pay only Bt20. This park is Bt400), I thought I’d save my $12 for something else. (Note: the current exchange rate is $1 USD to 32 Thai Baht.)

Mae Sariang is where I spent my first night. It’s a charming little town along the beautiful Yuam River. Here there are accommodations ranging from pricy boutique hotels (mostly for affluent Thais who are on holiday) to bed-only guest houses set within traditional teakwood homes. I chose the latter, the Northwest Guest House across the road from the river. The town has a couple of excellent seafood restaurants, and pleasant places along the River to have a beer with your cheap Thai or Western food. (This is the sort of laid-back environment that Pai was known for a dozen years ago.) The people of Mae Sariang are very pleasant (not in a phony way as in Chiang Mai or Pai), personable and appear to be enjoying life. One could easily stay several days here, catching a bus up highway 108 when ready to continue on. That is if they don’t have their own wheels.

Mae La Noi is only 30km away from Mae Sariang, but after stopping for an iced coffee (“café yen”) at the stand next to the big Silver Sala (a sort of wall-less pavilion) and being overwhelmed by the magnificent view of the rice fields below and traditional hill town in the backdrop, I decided to drive down into the valley (known as Ma Yuam Fam Kwaa) and cruise the town’s picturesque streets that lead into hill tribe communities and vast farmlands. I found the location so enchanting that I stayed the night in the area’s only “home stay” which was a new teakwood mansion at the entry point of Ma Yum. The sign in front of the compound is in Thai, but it’s obvious that it’s a place to stay for the night. (For Bt500, I had one of the nicest rooms ever. Amazing views, very comfortable sleep. There are two nice bungalows for Bt300.)

Khun Yuam, an hour’s ride from Mae La Noi, is a popular resting spot for Loopers. Though the town is pretty and hosts a museum on WWII history, there are few attractions other than nature walks. There you’ll find the Baan Farang Guest House. It’s very clean and comfortable as well as a great place to eat. (Rarely do roadside backpacker places do justice to Thai food.) And the operator, Ms. Macci, is an interesting young woman, with much history of the region to share with you.

Traditional villages continue to dot much of highway 108 and you’ll find yourself wanting to stop and take a peek inside some of them. Do that. It will be well worth your time. (Of course, try to be inconspicuous and avoid clicking pictures of locals as if they are statues and not people.) The National Parks also become more abundant as you climb higher north. Mae Surin has one of Thailand’s most spectacular waterfalls, and offers up spectacular views. One can go up to Mae Ko Vafe without the need for the expensive park fee, up to “microwave top”, passing a Hmong village, where there’s a nice viewing area.

Mae Hong Son, Thailand’s northwestern capital and province, is actually a small town. It’s not only a very lovely place to chill out (BTW, in the winter the temperatures can get to freezing) but a location to make as your base for trekking and area visits. It’s also a fine place to stay put and work for a week or two. The food up here may not win awards (though one must try Pra Cra Ho seafood restaurant at the town’s gateway), but the people are interesting, bright, and love to chat. With all of the coffee houses, book readers, mountain bikes and joggers, you’ll think you’re in an Oregon (USA) college town. Jong Kham Lake is the counterpoint of the town and where many of the budget guest houses nudge up to. Most of the cheaper places charge about Bt300 per night (bed only, but great views of the lake), but there are places set back aside and behind Wat Chong Kham that are of great value. Romtai House has teak bungalows around a lovely lotus pond for Bt300-500 per night. Though no Wi-Fi yet, the rooms are big, have furniture, refrigerator, hot shower, AC, and Satellite TV. And just a short walk away, on the lake’s southwest corner, is Baan Tue Lek coffee house. Miss Pook provides free Wi-Fi—as well as great information on what to enjoy within her town. Great location.

Mae Hong Son is not, however, a party scene. The few bars in town are more quaint then “happening”. (You’ll want to continue on to Pai for that.) There are, however, interesting morning and nights markets here, loads of coffee houses to read a book in, National Parks and nearby traditional villages and hill tribes to explore. Mae Hong Son is slow—but in a good way.

If you leave Mae Hong Son early and travel highway 1095 you can arrive in Pai in time for lunch. You’ll first pass the town of Soppong (known for its cave tours), which is where you’ll begin your decent southward. But do take your time on these hairpin-turn roads, and savor the drive. Along the way you’ll be treated to some of Thailand’s finest nature and views of hill tribe villages. (Because once you’re in Pai, the delicate natural order of the northwest takes a dive.)

In the past decade, Pai has become the darling for backpackers (most of whom only travel with the Southeast Asia on a Shoestring—known as the guide book for the herd). What was once a sleepy little town along the Pai River has become a tourist haunt for the young who are seeking traveler companionships, cheap ganga and convenience over authenticity and inspiration. Having once enjoyed Pai as a place with a soul, it now only breaks my heart. It isn’t Khao San Road yet, but give it another few years.

Once you leave Pai (or pass by it) you’ll see more of the familiar scenery you’d seen while arching over the northern tip: traditional villages, terraced fields, magnificent landscapes. This will continue for about 90 minutes before entering the greater Chiang Mai region.

Trains to and from Chiang Mai to Bangkok are scheduled throughout the day. Get a second class sleeper berth and pass the night away in slumber. Flights are also available all day, with frequent promotional prices.
To see images of the Mae Hong Son Loop, visit the Laptophobo Photo Album.